Monday, May 10, 2010




May 10

More sea otter photos. Probably a hundred lounged about the rocks. I loved how they seemed so comfortable in their large sack like bodies. Whales are a major predator. They can swim close to the rocky shoreline and wait for the lions to feed. My camera caught several quick surfacings including one of the fluke as the humpback made a deep dive.

The seals were more skittish and slide into the water. You can only see their bobbing heads. The miracle of creation abounds. We are so grateful for this amazing three hours of cruising about Lynn Canal. Truly we will forever treasure these moments.





May 10

Okay. So my thoughts of posting at least every other day are out the door....mainly because I am out the door. We spent the weekend enjoying a Haines springtime. Residence put away heavy clothing and women sported tank tops. Xtra Tuf boots are replaced by sandles. This year we have followed the daffodils...first in Beaufort, then Sylva and now Haines. Plants here seem to grow hardier like the people. Dandelions are a dancing across every hillside and in some yards form a cultivated garden. We spent the weekend enjoying Mud Bank beach.

Here are some "catch up" photos of our river sightings with Carl, Jen, Quin, Lucky and Lucy....sea otters, whales, seals, bald eagles, and even a rare sighting of a mountain goat! The animals all seemed out enjoying the warm sun along with us. Notice the large sea lion. They are called beach masters. They can weigh up to 4000 lbs. Check out Paul's blog for an eloquent description. coopscomments.blogspot.com

Wednesday, May 5, 2010



Serendipity.

Carol dashed in this morning as I was frying a crab cake and toasting the accompanying
English muffin. "Let's go over and talk to the science teacher Mark Fontenot right now. It's his planning period.". The Haines high school is a 3 minute walk. I walked into the new facility and was pleased to see a school built with the aesthetic sensibility that says "all students deserve to learn in beautiful artfilled surrounding". The fine works of Tlingits, Alaskan artists and student artists were carefully integrated into the design of the schools beautiful nature center architecture. Lettuce was growing in the windows. It is a school of 300 K-12. We met with Mark, the marine biology teacher. He had just completed a day on the Loggerhead Turtle and jumped at the idea of presenting my Turtleworks. Can you come back in an hour? Yes, indeed.
We had a beautiful time together. The students asked perceptive questions. At the end of class
a young man who had been very attentive shared with me that he was an exchange student from Malaysia. He is sponsored by an exchange program called YES. It is a program that brings Islamic students to the states to promote peace and understanding....that not all Muslims are dangerous....nor do all Americans think they are.

He showed me pictures on his cell phone of his own involvement with the Leatherback turtles in Malaysia! He had stunning photos of a mother turtle laying her eggs...lit from under the turtle. We could see the point of her tail in the hole. I hope he will email them to me to share.
Later today I visited the library to make some plans with Jolanta for a children's class. I am including a photo Mom and Babe at work.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010






Crabbing is Great!

Tuesday May 4, 2010

Yesterday Lucy taught me her crab-picking methods. Compared to Beaufort Blue Crabs the Dungenese Crabs of the Lynn Canal are hugh..sometimes measuring 10" across. Having the right tool for the right job is crucial to obtaining as much chunky meat as possible. Lucy recommended Joyce Chen all purpose scissors. They are razor sharp and have padded handles. Slicing throught the leg segments top and bottom allow the meat to be lifted out instead of picking it out in bits and pieces. We cleaned a dozen crabs and had enough for dinner for ourselves and the HAL residents. We all savored this succulent delicacy, appreciating every mouthful even more because of the 3 hours of effort required to extract it from the shells. Enough is left for Lucy to create her special recipe for crab cakes for tonights meal.

As a result of my expressed interest in crabbing and all things "water related", Lucy generously invited me to join her and her fisherman buddy, Carl. We went out this glorious spring morning to check and empty the traps. A new snow had freshly traced the mountain peaks, but the temperature in this little cove was a comfortable 50. I snapped many "in process" photos. Now to figure out how to post them as a new blogger. Readers be patient as I hunt and peck my way through this.

Lunch is ready. Carol is preparing Italian Moose patties, rice and caldo verde soup.
This afternoon is devoted to planning with Jolanda, the librarian, for after school arts experiences on Thursdays. The new library here is a beauty. It was recognized several years ago as the "best small town library in American". Indeed it an inviting and functional space with offerings that suit a community who rely on multi media availability for the long cold winters. I look forward to spending time there. They have a whole wall of books on Alaska and interesting offerings on the Tlingit arts and culture.

Signing off for lunch. melba


Monday, May 3, 2010







Saturday May 1 2010

Paul and I are warmly greeted at the ferry by our friend Carol. Carol and I have worked on several arts education projects in Beaufort over the past twenty years. Her parents, the Nelson's homesteaded in Haines. Now that they are deceased she has settled into the community and is shepherding the future of their land.

Carol is a visionary creative organizer/advocate for the arts. She supervises the food services at the newly opened Haines Assisted Living home. HAL's founder Lucy Harrel generously offered us a suite to live in while we are here for the month. Note: Lucy is 86, is an active river boat captain of a tugboat. Lucy is my new role model. Though bent and stiff with arthritis, she is still "captain of her own boat" bringing in food from the bounty of this land. We look forward to picking the crabs she will haul in for dinner! Right away we have been treated with local cuisine of moose sausage, moose stew, and salmon chowder Carol serves healthy food in healthy portions on small plates. Stay tuned for future recipes.

We are appreciative of the conscious and compassionate care that is give to the residents here. Indeed we are blessed with this experience of a special community who respect and care for the elders.

Saturday night was yet another opportunity to participate in community life as we joined Mandy and Scott Ramsey for a beachside bonfire picnic in honor and celebration of Scott's father's life. The smelt had been running the week before. We savored our first smoked smelt washed down with a local Haines brew. Dogs and people mingled and shared, kids explored the mudbanks then shedding their shoes warmed toes at the campfire. We learned from conversations with several people that if you decide to live in Haines you are considered "from Haines" In the spirit of the frontier town, ancestral heritage is irrelevant Everyone in a sense is a "newcomer" . There is a quality of equality and acceptance that is deep and ...well REAL.

Sunday May 2nd

We attended the service at St. Michael's Episcopal church. A magnificent view of the Lynn Canal below snow capped mountains provides the windowed backdrop for the altar. I must confess that my attention for the service was tempered by my desire to watch for a whale sighting during the service. Now that would be an extraordinary spiritual experience.

Later that afternoon we enjoyed a gallery opening in celebration of Cinco de Mayo at Extreme Dreams Gallery. The gallery is owned by John and Sharon Svenson. It is a marvelous collection of fine art and crafts by Alaskan artists.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Fresh. I climbed the metal stairway of the ferry to Deck 4 and stepped out into the Solarium.
I passed several hearty campers still sleeping atop plastic lounge chairs in their down mummy bags. Walking beyond the open solarium I caught the first brisk breeze atop our ferry the Le Conte. Breathing deeply of the freshest air on earth. Pristine....The grandness of the volcanic mountain landscape meets seascape stretched out in the wake. A pathway to infinite distant ranges. We were on our four hour leg of our journey from Juneau to Haines. Invigorated from a thousand miles and several days of airline air, I took in deep rejuvenating breathes. A new land for my eyes, new experiences, new friends awaited me nestled on the beaches of a special little community of people. More to come.